In Shakespeare's The Tempest, a sea change is described as a subtle transformation that results in "something rich and strange." This strikes me as a lovely way to think about the benefits of a daunting transition.
Our battered-but-resilient economy has weathered many changes in the past year and a half, but for some, it's inspired a renewed sense of flexibility and creativity. One compelling example of this type of go-with-the-flow ingenuity is how the venerable Blue Fish has become The Reef, a restaurant rethought. The focus on good, affordable seafood there is striking a chord with those who want to go out to eat without decimating their budgets. Owned by David and Karen Meredith, The Reef is located on a prime corner of Midtown's Cooper-Young neighborhood. Executive chef Tim Foley has a playful way with the dishes — their presentation both modern and pleasing. In addition, the quality of the service at The Reef truly shines. >>>
One recent Monday night, we breezed through The Reef's nautical-porthole-bedecked front doors and requested a table beside the wide windows. Spotlights were shining brightly; we asked for a moodier setting, and the hostess discreetly dimmed the overheads. The same underwater wonderland decor was present since the restaurant space has been relatively untouched; it's still awash in oceany blues, spiked with silver accents and a terra-cotta-hued ceiling. A few kitschy fish and lit-up palm trees are humorous but seemed to me a bit time-worn in the space.
My dining companion and I immediately noticed the reasonable prices on the menu; appetizers and salads ran from $5 to $11, and entrées were priced under $20. For my appetizer, I chose the Captain Crunch Shrimp, breaded with Cap'n Crunch cereal, a detail which amused me. A small portion of golden-breaded shrimp arrived along with a sweet chili sauce. Warm and crunchy, this shrimp dish was a good introduction to the solid preparation of the food to come. My dining companion wanted to try the baked oysters and selected the Half and Half appetizer with Bienvilles and Rockefellers. Reminiscing the day after our meal, she insisted that this dish was her favorite. We swooned over the spinach, shallot, Pernod, and parmesan combination in the three Oysters Rockefeller and felt that the flavors were bright and balanced with the focus on enhancing the oysters, not overpowering them.
Next, we shared a goat cheese salad with organic greens and housemade balsamic vinaigrette. The goat cheese was fried medallion-style and added a nice creamy texture to the salad's straightforward ingredients. Next, we sampled a cup of buttery, sherry-spiked crab bisque; the amount of heavy cream in this was apparent, so the smaller portion that we'd ordered was a good choice.
For my entrée, I decided to try the yellowtail tuna sashimi. The presentation was artful: a wavy wasabi cream border framed the plate, and pieces of seared, soy-ginger glazed tuna rested atop tight nests of soba noodles and wakame seaweed. I liked the Asian flavors and remembered this dish as an old favorite from the restaurant's last iteration.
Other seafood options that night included blackened, pecan or herb-crusted, grilled, and fried fresh catches such as ahi tuna, black grouper, Lane snapper, Louisiana redfish, Idaho trout, monkfish, and mahi-mahi. While portions overall at The Reef are a bit smaller now due to the emphasis on affordable dishes, the owner's interest in procuring in-season seafood from the Gulf and beyond remains.
Those who wish to try something other than seafood will be pleased to see some meatier options on the menu: Rack of lamb, shrimp and grits, and filet mignon beckon. We selected the bone-in, center-cut grilled pork chop with onion demi-glace. Strewn with apples, this dish also included cauliflower and grits on the side. It made for a majestic dinner, and my companion was so focused on the dish that all conversation ceased for many awkward minutes, and then she looked up to proclaim it perfectly cooked.
Overall, our desserts were pleasant, but the first one we tried was a little basic. The banana parfait sounded interesting; it was vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, a few slices of banana, and whipped cream. We also ordered white chocolate bread pudding, a sticky, comforting confection.
I found the service at dinner excellent; there's something to be said for servers who are present and personable and not simply on autopilot. Ours seemed genuinely glad we were there, and he never came across as rushed or distracted. He took our questions seriously and bantered with us in an entertaining way. We felt as though we were valued regulars.
On a Friday night, I returned to The Reef, and even though it was a busy night, I still noticed the same impressive level of service. There was a warmth there and a care for the customers that was palpable. These high standards are something to behold, and everyone who was working that night seemed attentive to their customers. We sat at the bar and tried a couple of appetizers: the Crispy Fried Green Tomatoes were complemented by a roasted red pepper coulis and goat cheese, and a bowl filled with tiny, meaty crab fingers, which I ordered sautéed, tasted heavenly in an herb-paprika butter sauce. We shared one of the specials for our entrée, which was explained as macaroni and cheese, but really was more of a shrimp a la vodka which included pasta spirals with mushrooms, tomatoes, and copious plump shrimp in a cream sauce. It was a hearty, generous portion of comfort food that was well-seasoned.
For dessert, we chose the key lime pie and admired its housemade look and tart, snappy flavor. The peanut butter pie featured a dark chocolate layer that we enjoyed, but the peanut butter layer seemed a bit thick and over-sugared for my taste.
Sunday brunch is also served at The Reef, and ours started out as a quiet, low-key affair; however, once the after-church crowd and the just-waking-up-at-noon contingent descend-ed upon the restaurant, it became livelier.
I was leaning toward ordering a sweet rather than savory dish, and the banana bread French toast beckoned, but our server informed us right away that there was no maple syrup to be had that day. So instead, I selected the Scallops Benedict with seared diver scallops, Canadian bacon, an egg poached to perfection, and hollandaise sauce. Rich, grainy yellow grits accompanied this dish. My brunch companion ordered Eggs Sardou, which included eggs atop steamed artichoke bottoms and creamed spinach. We were impressed by the technique shown in both dishes, and the perfectly poached eggs were a marvel. Hearty but not heavy, both brunch dishes were a success. Our server's welcoming and solicitous manner also added a gracious note to our meal.
The tweaks that have been made at The Reef are positive, and the stellar service there is such a strength. This appealingly priced, not-just-for-special-occasions seafood restaurant seems just right for right now.
